GEOGRAPHY PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL

 GEOGRAPHY PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL

EAST AFRICA PROTECTORATE

(1) Position and Frontiers

The East Africa Protectorate extends from the Indian Ocean to Lakes Rudolf and Victoria Nyanza It marches on the north with Abyssinia, on the south with the Tanganyika Territory (German East Africa), on the east with” Italian Somaliland, and on the west with the Uganda Protectorate. It lies between 4° 40' S. and 4° 30' N. latitude, and between 34° and 42° 40' E. longitude, and has an area of some 247,000 square miles.

The southern boundary follows a straight line north¬west from the mouth of the River Umba to Lake Jipe, the east shore of which it ascends; thence it proceeds northwards, leaving Mount Kilimanjaro in German territory, to about 3° south latitude, whence it again follows a straight line north-west to Mohuru Bay on Victoria Nyanza, in 1° south latitude. In the east the boundary between British East Africa and Italian Somaliland is the River Juba, from its mouth to the confluence of the Daua. From this point the boundary between British East Africa and Abyssinia follows the River Daua as far as Malka Murri. Thence it runs roughly west-south¬west, and again west, following tribal boundaries, to the eastern end of the Goro escarpment, which it follows for some distance, afterwards turning in a north¬westerly direction to near the southern end of Lake Stefanie, and thence directly west to Lake Rudolf. Between the East Africa Protectorate and Uganda the boundary passes down the middle of Lake Rudolf to the'mouth of the River Turkwel, the course of which it follows to its source. It then crosses the summit of Mount Elgon, and, striking the River Sio, follows it to Victoria Nvanza, and passes west of the islands of Sumba, Mageta, and Mfwanganu, to the point oh Mohuru Bay at which the former German frontier reaches the lake.

(2) Surface, Coast, Rivers, and Lakes 

Surface and Coast

Apart from a narrow belt of coast-land and the plains of Jubaland and Tanaland, the whole territory forms part of the East African Plateau. The country is traversed from north to south by the Eastern Rift valley, which forms a series of lake basins from Lake Rudolf in the north to Lake Natron on the southern frontier.

The highland region in the south-west, which extends far into the Tanganyika Territory, lies at an altitude of between 5,000 and 8,000 feet. North¬ wards to Lake Rudolf, beyond the region of high mountains, the general level declines rapidly, though there are mountains south-east of the lake. Farther east a steppe region, bounded on the north by the escarpment of the Abyssinian highlands, slopes downwards towards the south-east, passing into the plains of Jubaland. West of the Rift valley the Nandi and Mau escarpments fall sharply to the great depression of Victoria Nyanza.

The whole territory may be divided roughly into five regions: (1) the coast and coastal plain, (2) the slopes of the south-western plateau, (3) the largely volcanic highlands rising therefrom, (4) the depression of Victoria Nyanza, and (5) the northern steppes and the plains of Jubaland and Tanaland. Of these regions i he third is-by far the most important and characteristic. (1) The Coast.—From the River Umba, as far north as Formosa Bay, the coast consists of sandy beaches and low coral cliffs, broken by mangrove-fringed creeks and protected by a barrier reef. Farther north it becomes lower and more sandy, and in the neighbourhood of the Lamu group consists of a maze of creeks and islands. North of Kwaihu Bay it is low and unbroken, though small islands and reefs are still numerous.

It is well provided with natural harbours, of which Mombasa is the most important. Port Durnford and Kismayu, in Jubaland, have some importance owing to the lack of harbours further north along the Benadir coast.

The islands, Wasin (near the mouth of the Umba), the Lamu group, and the Bajun islands north of Port Durnford, are the site of the chief Arab towns on the coast, and still possess a considerable population.

The Coastal Plain—The section furthest south be¬ tween the River Umba and the River Sabaki consists of a narrow strip between the sea and the Shimba and Giriama Hills (600 to 1,500 ft.). Sandhills also rise in places to a height of several hundred feet.

This zone is fertile and well cultivated, and south¬ west of Malindi there is a large tract of forest. North of the River Sabaki the coast plain widens greatly, being joined by the inland plains of the Tana. In the Witu and Lamu districts the soil is especially fertile. Further north, in Jubaland, the coast plain is com¬ pletely merged in the great plains of the interior. In this section it is covered with bush, and there is little cultivation. A line of sandhills about 200 ft. high here follows the coast, not far inland.

(2) The Plateau Slopes.—The southern part of the coast plain is bounded on the west by a range of sandstone hills, and behind these are the thinly peopled steppes of Nyika or Taru, which rise gradually west¬ward to a height of 3,000 ft. The soil of these plains is a characteristic red earth, which is fertile when irrigated, and the vegetation consists of a dense thorn scrub. To the south and west of Voi the plains are broken by a number of lofty summits, ranging from 4,000 to 7,000 ft. high, among them being Bura and Kadiaro. Between Tsavo and Taveta, the country is well watered and fertile.

(3) The Volcanic Highlands.—The plateau rises towards the west in a series of ridges running roughly north and south, and having a general altitude of some 5,000 ft. Beyond these ridges rise Mount Kenya and the great ranges of the south-western plateau, which are mainly of volcanic origin. This highland region is divided into two parts by the Eastern Rift valley. Kenya, the Laikipia plateau, the Kikuyu uplands and the Masai plains lie to the east of the valley, and Mount Elgon, the Gwas Ngishu (Uasin Gishu) plateau, and the Nandi, Mau and Lumbwa districts to the west.

The great volcanic mass of Kenya, which lies north of Kikuyu, facing the northern end of the Aberdare Mountains, rises to a height of 17,040 ft., and its slopes are thickly wooded.

The Laikipia plateau lies north-west of Mount Kenya, and consists for the most part of rolling grass plains with an altitude of 6,000 to 7,000 ft. The Lorogai Mountains form the northern scarp of the plateau, and on the east it shelves downwards towards the Jubaland plains and the Lorian swamp. The district is badly watered, save near the River GwasoNyiro, and is very difficult of access.

The Kikuyu uplands, which slope westwards from the wall of the Eastern Rift valley, are one of the most fertile and thickly peopled regions of British East Africa. The Kikuyu country proper lies at an altitude of 4,500 to 6,500 ft., and consists of a succession of well-watered valleys, which were originally covered by forests, but have now been cleared. The zone of culti¬ vation is extending far up the slopes of the Kikuyu escarpment and the Aberdare Mountains, which attain in places an altitude of 12,000 to 13,000 ft. The Masai plains, which have an altitude of 5,000 to 6,000 ft., run southwards from Kikuyu towards the former German frontier and Mt. Kilimanjaro, and, with the exception of the Athi and part of the Kapiti plains, south and east of Nairobi, are now included in the Masai reserve. They consist of flat and open grass-lands, badly watered, but nevertheless affording good grazing, except in the Nyiri district in the south-east.

The Eastern Rift valley crosses the entire territory from north to south, and in the region of Lake Baringo is bounded on the west by the double line of the Eigeyo and Kamasia escarpments. In its central portion, where the escarpment walls are most clearly defined, and where its floor is highest, it has a widtn of 20 to 30 miles, and lies at a depth of 800 ft. below the general level of the highlands, and 1,500 to 3,000 ft. below the heights of the neighbouring escarpments. The valley floor is divided by a series of transverse folds, which form many lake basins. (See section on “Lakes” below.) The high central portion of this region is well watered and affords excellent pasturage and fertile agricultural land, but north and south of this the valley becomes arid and the climate hot.

The great Gwas Ngishu plateau is bounded on the east by the Eigeyo escarpment, on the north by the Suk Mountains, on the west by Mount Elgon, and on the south by the Nandi escarpment. It consists mainly of level grass-covered plains, with an altitude of 6,000 to 8,000 ft., but there are large tracts of forest.

The Nandi and Mau escarpments are clothed in dense forest, which continues through the broken Lumbwa and Sotik hill country, westward to the Victoria Nyanza depression and southward to the former German frontier.

(4) The Depression of Victoria Nyanza.—That portion of the territory which borders Victoria Nyanza belongs naturally rather to the Uganda Protectorate than to British East Africa. East of the Kavirondo Gulf the shore of the lake is low and swampy, and the country here consists of open plains. Farther south the surface is high and broken, and there is much forest and bush.

(5) The Northern Steppes and the Plains of Jubaland and Tanaland. This district is a northerly continuation of the coastal plain described in (1). The whole of the territory between Lake Rudolf and the River Juba consists of arid thorn-covered steppe (mostly under 2,000 ft. above sea-level), which slopes eastwards and south-eastwards from the region of the Laikipia plateau. This steppe region is in some places almost a desert, although there are occasional wells and oases.

Rivers and Lakes

Owing to the comparative closeness of the eastern water-parting to the sea, there are no very large rivers. The most important are those of the coast area the Juba, the lana, and the Sabaki. There are three drainage areas: (a) that of the coast, (6) that of the Rift Valley, and (c) that of Victoria Nyanza.

{a) lhe River Juba rises in the Abyssinian highlands, and touches British East Africa at about 42° east longitude and 4° Iff north latitude, from this point forming the frontier between British East Africa and Italian Somaliland. It is navigable to light draught river steamers as far as Yonte all the year round, and in the wet season as far as Bardera. The Gwaso Nviro River, which drains the Laikipia plateau and the northern slopes of Mount Kenya, flows into the Lorian swamp; it belongs to the Juba system, with which it is connected in very wet seasons by the Deshek Warna swamp and the Lakdera.

The River Tana rises in the Aberdare Mountains, and drains the eastern and southern slopes of Mount Kenya, the Kikuyu country, and the plains of Tanaland. Its principal tributary is the Thika.

The valleys of the Juba and Tana have a rich alluvial soil and abundant vegetation. On both rivers there are large tracts of forest, and on the Upper Juba there is a considerable amount of cultivation.

The River Sabaki, which is known in its upper course as the Athi, drains the Ukamba country and the plains south of Nairobi. Its principal tributary is the Tsavo, on the right bank.

(b) The drainage area of the Rift Valley contains no important rivers, since it is very narrow in the only part where there is any rain. The southern affluents of Lake Rudolf, the Kerio and Turkwel rivers, are the largest, but these usually dry up in their lower course.

(c) Only a small part of the basin of Victoria Nyanza is in the East Africa Protectorate, but its rivers are fairly large in consequence of the heavy rainfall of that region. The most important rivers are : the Nzoia, which drains the Gwas Ngishu plateau, the Nyando, the Sondo, and the Kuja.

There are numerous lakes in the Rift valley. The largest is Lake Rudolf, the southern and eastern parts of which lie within the territory, and which has a total area of about 3,500 square miles. Next in size are Baringo (13 miles by 5 miles), Naivasha (the highest— 6,165 ft. above sea-level), Nakuru, and Magadi. Smaller ones are Elmenteita, Ilannington, and Bollossat (El-Bor Lossat).

(3) Climate 

Tem'perature

Owing to the high elevation of the central part of the Protectorate, a large part of the country enjoys a temperate and bracing climate. The maximum temperature of this highland region is about 80° F. (26-6° C.), and the minimum about 50° F. (10° C.). The low-lying coastal region has naturally a higher average temperature, ranging from 90° F. (32° C.) to 70° F. (21°. C.). It will thus be seen that the seasonal variation is not great.

A high degree of heat prevails in the regions south and east of Lake Rudolf, especially in the neighbour¬ hood of the Lorian swamp, while the plains of Jubaland are the hottest part of the Protectorate.

Rainfall

There are two rainy seasons, the greater rains falling between March and June and the lesser between October and December. Local variations, however exist, as in Ju,baland the lesser rains fall somewhat earlier, while in the Nyanza Province, at the otjier extremity of the country, they are almost continuous from March to December.

In the southern coastal districts there is a high but irregular rainfall, which varies between 45 and 70 in. (1,140 and 1,780 mm.). A considerable rainfall, about 30-70 in. (760-1,780 mm.), prevails in the lake shore district, and also in the Kikuyu and Kenya districts. The rainfall of the central highland region is irregular, and varies between 25 and 50 in. (635 and 1,270 mm.)!

The regions of smallest rainfall are the southern plains, the Rift valley north of Lake Baringo, the Laikipia plateau, and the districts south and east of Lake Rudolf.

(4) Sanitary Conditions

Owing to the high elevation and consequent temperate climate of the central parts of the territory, the ^ Protectorate is more suitable for European residence than any other part of tropical Africa. Moreover, the coastal regions, with the exception of the district immediately north of the River Umba, compare favour¬ ably with other African coast-lands, Kismayu in particular being fairly healthy.

Malaria is, however, very prevalent, and appears to be increasing in highland districts, such as Naivasha, where it was at first unknown. Blackwater fever, a common sequel of neglected malaria, also causes some mortality, and dysentery is on the increase; there is 3 much enteric, due probably to the pollution of the water supply of the towns. Measures are being taken to remove this source of infection at Kisumu, Nakuru and Mombasa.

Plague, both bubonic and pneumonic, frequently occurs in different parts of the Protectorate. It is endemic on the shore of Victoria Nyanza and is fairly common in the Asiatic quarter of Nairobi. It also occurs on the coast, especially at Mombasa.

Other prevalent diseases are small-pox; cerebrospinal meningitis; sleeping sickness, which is conimon in the Victoria Province; venereal diseases; beri-beri, which is endemic on the upper Juba; and leprosy, which is found in the Victoria Province and near the coast, especially in the towns of Mombasa and Malindi.

Bilharzia, filariasis and ankylostomiasis also occur, especially in the coast regions.

There are Government hospitals at Nairobi and Mombasa.

(5) Race and Language Race

Ethnologically the Protectorate forms an intermediate zone between the negro and the Hamitic races. The north-eastern districts are inhabited by pure Hamites such as the Somali and the Galla; Bantu tribes are found scattered through the whole territory, and the central highlands are occupied by peoples of a mixed race, the most important and characteristic of which are the Masai. In addition to these natives, the coast and its islands were colonised in very early times by Asiatic settlers. The latter consisted of Arabs and Persians, and their descendants still form a consider¬ able part of the population of the coast towns, especially in the Lamu group.

The following are the chief divisions of the population.

(1) Arabs and Swahili.—The Arabs of Mombasa, and, to a lesser extent, those of the rest of the coast, are mostly immigrants from Muscat during the Zanzibari period, the original Arabs of Mombasa—the Mazrui— having retired at Takaungu. The original Arab and Persian settlers are represented by the Bajuns north¬ wards from Patta and by the Swahili south of that point. In the Lamu Islands the latter are as pure in blood as tbe Muscat Arabs, but elsewhere they are much mixed with the Bantu, and the name is commonly ex¬ tended to all coast natives who use the Swahili tongue.

(2) Hamites.—The Somali are by far the most important Hamitic race in the Protectorate, and now extend as far south as the left bank of the River Tana, and as far west as the Lorian swamp, Wajheir and El Wak. They are a handsome and intelligent people, resembling the Galla in physical type, but taller and of a slighter build.

The most important Somali tribes in the territory are the Herti on the coast, and the Ogaden and Marehan in the interior, while closely allied tribes are the Adjuran and the Shurri, Gurre or Garre, who inhabit north-west Jubaland and the Moyale district.

The Galla belong to two distinct stocks, the Wurde of Tanaland and the Bonana of the northern plains. The Wurde Galla have long inhabited the coast region of Tanaland, but are now confined to the right bank of the Tana and to Witu. The Borana are found in the plains east of Lake Rudolf and west of Jubaland. The Galla of Tanaland have intermixed to some extent with negroes, but the Borana are light in colour and pure in race.

(3) Hamitic negroid group.—This group is repre¬ sented by the Masai, the Samburu, the Nandi, Suk ami Turkana. It appears to have originated in the steppe country south of the Abyssinian Highlands by the inter¬ mixture of Galla and Somali with Nilotic negroes. Thus it is essentially a transitional type, and examples may be found ranging from pure Hamitic to pure negro.

The Masai are the most important of these races, and show the greatest signs of Hamitic blood. Since the British occupation they have been removed to the Southern Reserve in order to leave room for European settlement. Closely allied to the Masai and speaking the same language are the Samburu of the Northern Plains.

The Nandi, with whom are allied the Elgeyo, Kamasia, Sotik and Lumbwa, inhabit the western escarpment of the central highlands. They have been greatly influenced by the Masai, whom they resemble in physical type. The Suk are a tribe of mixed origin who live north and east of the Gwas Ngishu plateau.

The Turkana are a very large and important tribe who inhabit the plains west of Lake Rudolf and have recently pressed south-eastwards across the River Kerio and the River Sugcta. They are an extremely tall race, flat-faced and negroid in feature, and are of a much more massive build than the Masai.

The Doirobbo or Ogiek may be included in this group, since they have strong affinities to the Nandi. They are a people of hunters, who are looked down upon by the other tribes. It is probable that they represent an aboriginal race of Bushman type, but they have inter¬ mingled with the surrounding peoples and the NandiMasai strain is now dominant.

(4) Negro group.—The negro peoples of the Protec¬ torate all belong to the Bantu family, with the excep¬ tion of the Jaluo, or Nilotic Kavirondo, who inhabit the eastern shores of Victoria Nyanza, alongside of the Bantu Kavirondo. The three most important Bantu peoples are the Wakikuyu, who have been much in¬ fluenced by the Masai, the Wakamba and the Kavirondo. In the east of the Protectorate the Wagosha inhabit the lower Juba Valley, and the Wapokomo are found in the Tana. Further south dwell the restless and back¬ ward Wanyika tribes, of which the most important is the Giriama.

Other Bantu peoples, the Meru and the Embu, are found in the district of Mount Kenya.

Language

The language which is in most common use in the Protectorate is Swahili, which is held to have originated in the district of Lamu. It is a blend of Bantu and Arabic, and has become a lingua franca far into the interior.

Of the languages spoken by the Hamitic group of peoples by far the purest and most widespread is Galla. The Somali speech has affinities with Galla, but has been much more influenced by Arabic.

The languages spoken by the Hamitic-Negroid tribes, (Masai, Nandi, &c.), are of exceptional interest to the student of African languages owing to their peculiarities of structure. The negroes of the Protectorate all speak regular Bantu tongues.

(6) Population

Distribution

The population of the different provinces of the Protectorate was estimated as follows in the years 1915-16:—

Province. !         Europeans.         Asiatics.             Natives.             Total. •

Seyidie ..          366                        7,677                195,000*            203,043*

Ukamba            2,875                    5,679                372,948              381,502

Kenya                361                        266                  867,152              867,779

Masai Reserve     ---                        ---                   36,000                36,000

Naivasha            1,541                    498                156,734                158,773

Nyanza                431                    2,052                1,116,655            1,119,138

Jubaland            39                        367                  17,000                 17,406

Totals                5,632                    17,238              2,801,489            2,824,359

Approximate

The greater part of the population of the Protec¬ torate is concentrated in four thickly peopled districts. These are (1) the Kavirondo district to the east of Victoria Nyanza; (2) the Kikuyu and Kenya districts; (3) the Machakos and Kitui districts of Ukamba; (4) the southern part of the coast region. The thinness of the population elsewhere is due in the northern districts to the aridity of the country. In the central highlands it is, however, mainly due to the predominance of the warlike Masai, who monopo¬ lised all the open grass-lands of that region and were checked in their raids only by forest country.

Towns

The largest town is Mombasa, the chief port, which has a population of about 30,000, 130 of whom are Europeans. The other towns of the coast, all of which except Witu are very ancient, are now much decayed The most important are Lamu, Takaungu, Malindi and Kismavu of which the last two have each about 5,000 inhabitants.

The towns of the interior are all of recent growth Nairobi, the capital of the Protectorate, has about 14,000 inhabitants, including 800 Europe-ps and 3,000 Indians. Naivasha and Nakuru in the Rift valley and Eldoret on the Gwas Ngishu plateau are centres of the chief areas of European settlement, and Kisumu on Victoria Nyanza is the terminus of the Uganda Railway.

Movement

Although birth and death statistics are not obtainable, there is reason to believe .that the former dominant races of the Protectorate are declining. The new con¬ ditions are unfavourable on the one hand to the Arabs and Swahili and on the other to the Masai. In addition to this, disease and immorality probably account for the infecundity of these races, while the same is said to be true of some of the negro tribes such as the Wapokomo and the Wanyika.

The Somali, on the other hand, are an advancing race, and the Turkana are also said to be increasing at the expense of the Suk and the Samburu.

BOOK NAME: KENYA,UGANDA AND ZANZIBAR

By: G. W. PROTHERO

PUBLISHED: 1920